Stage 38, Oct 14, Oliveroa to Muxia, 32.5km, total time 8:45 hrs

Oliveiroa is almost a mandatory resting point for any traveller on the Rua de la Morte, i.e. the final part of the Camino de Santiago towards Finisterre and Muxia. The village is almost inconsistent except a couple of hostels and a pension serving a hot meal. Almost all pilgrims going that far, know each other fairly well and the atmosphere is like a reunion of long time friends. I manage to get a picture of Brian, an Englishman, I walked with for part of a stage and to whom I lended 5 Euro to buy his breakfast. With surprise a few stages after, I found him waiting for me on the road to return me the money.

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The morning wake up was under drizzling rain but with an acceptable temperature. Not long after the starting point, we hit the junction between the way to Finisterre on the left and the much less travelled way to Muxia on the right. In actual count we met only 5 pilgrims along the whole road, a just about the same walking the road backwards.

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After so many crossings of rural areas, and of small churches, we were quite eager to reach the sea.

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Being on the road since over three months, Luigi is an expert on how to feed from corn, tomatoes, apples and lemons, all rigorously taken from the many orchards and vegetable gardens along the road.

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The sky finally started opening a bit, and at 3pm, exactly we happened to the first sighting of the coast in the distance.

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We had to go over the crest of a promontory and half hour later we were finally able to reach Muxia and the Sanctuary of the Virxa de Barca and to pay our respect to the mighty ocean. A unexpected sunset is blessing the moment and the fierce strength of the sea and the wind that seems to possess the place, seem to be powerless against the peace and the serenity if the sanctuary.¬† Huge rocks are amassed on the cliff degrading from the church towards the sea representing the remains of the stone boat carrying the Virgin Mary in support of St James’s apostolic activity in the region.

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Father Xavier was waiting us for dinner in his Albergue which had a very efficient kitchen and dining room where he prepared a salad if scallops and Roquefort served in St. Jacques shells, and seafood pasta.

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After a very moving and emotional farewell hug we left with the promise of going to meet him in his parish in central France, on foot of course!

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